Places of Memory – Memory of Places

Commemoration of the wars is proceed from posture of inhabitants to war. In Kosovo I was shaken by one commemoration – a house of one woman full of personal things of her sons, victims of the war. From my opinion is wide difference between commemorations, which lives with victims, and commemorations which are builded for the third or the fourth generation after war. Considering fact the reception of different aesthetic ways is changing all the time according to codes which ale belong the level of consciousness, the best way is commemorations in real place. The places lives everytime and also have some memories for past, visible more or less, that’s why Pristina is full of photos of missing people.

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Starting with Kosovo there is first the almost complete absence of a collectively supported remembrance culture. This state of affairs shows in the manifold private activities aiming at restoring or establishing the memory of war in private places, and in the fringes of the public sphere. The central semantic field exploited also by the government is obviously UČK. Many places in Prishtina – subtil and central ones – bear semantics that can be brought in connection with national strife – i. e. the motif of justified armed resistance. Since the UČK is the only official opportunity of identification, it seems to dominate peoples’ historical focus. There are various non-institutionalised groups, such as fine artists, musicians, journalists etc., who implement their personal experience and work against the uniformity of historical memory currently at work. Importantly, the war is generally remembered through the institution of single individuals, if possible with a qualifiying tag on it, such as “member of the UČK”, “fallen in battle”, “killed by the enemy”, “UČK hero”. I experienced a silent agreement that, though people of any descent, social status, sex and age were killed through the war, the central group remembered are males, with the assumption behind that if you were male and killed during the war, you were a UČK combatant, and therefore loyal, or you were planning to become a UČK member. There are no public memorials for any of the UČK actions against Kosovar refugees, and few for neutral people. There are, however, private actions trying to help the remembering of casualties. Here it seems, the aim is to help their kins to cope with the loss but not exploiting ideological motivations at the same time.
In the Czech Republic, due to the greater historical depth of events, the memory of the war is hidden under layers of different experiences shared by the people, which the public sphere reflects, of course. There are on the one hand many old, or, authentic post-war memorials, that powerfully reflect the liberation of the country from Fascism through the Soviet Union. So, the only historic monuments are statements of a political idea that is no longer in place.
Contemporary monuments tend to pay more respect to the individual. So, the Tereźin monument of the weeping mother shows a plural of victims who are conceived of as one abstract body expressing individual grief. Still, there are many plates and memorial sites that need the face and name of an individual. This authenticity runs parallel to a reality which has a different focus, i. e. does not really help the memory.
In Usti nad Labem we found memorial plates for victims of Fascism in niches and far-off corners, where they are hard to be found. At the same time, the region experiences the re-emerging and public staging of ideologies from the far-right. Here, fascist semantics inextricably connected to the war are picked up, revalued and staged in public as a hands-on-it show of an organised lot who see themselves as ultimate winners. In the ritualised ways of processions and power demonstrations, I see a way of commemorating the war, too, but cynically revisionist beyond compromise

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What will be stuck on my mind are first the history of people that I had the chance to meet or listen to, the sufferings, all the problems and difficulties they had to deal with during the worst period of their lives. I will not forget the empty streets of Terezine, all the emotion that it was transcending, the cold atmosphere and the impression of experiencing all the things that seventeen thousand people were experiencing in the same place, in the same streets, just in another time.

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Well, for Germany I cannot speak a lot, but to make a more direct comparison with Czech Republic, there are a lot of differences one can think of. First of all, there are more “centralized” memorials in Czech Republic, while you have very fragmented memory. Maybe it’s a good metaphor to the state of the memory itself, which is very interpretative, fluid and many-faceted (even though I cannot say the opposite for Czech Republic). Still, this doesn’t make the Kosovar memorials more personal, or at least doesn’t bring you closer to the personal story. In the case of Teresinstadt for example, you can walk through personal stories of many individuals, through their artistic works, poems, or very intimate moments of their life.
Maybe a similarity would be the fact that the political will is not so stable (committed) in both countries, but are “being-correct-oriented”, but that has to do more with the system as a whole rather than the issue of memory, I guess.

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From what we saw, it seems that in Germany the commemoration of the war is the most abstract one by now. Especially for the western part of the country, drastic political change took place about 60 years ago, so by now there are sculptures and installations discussing certain topics in a more distant way. In Czech Republic, however, we visited memorials dealing with the holocaust and those reminding of the communist regime. While for the war the artistic language is very symbolic, the communist era seems to be reminded of by displaying portrayals of important men.
The latter was almost entirely the case in Kosovo. The majority of memorials seem to be established to commemorate the ordeal of single people. More than anything, the connection to the UCK was stressed. Even on Mother-Teresa-Boulevard, having the nun’s statue as well, there are several memorial plaques telling about UCK (and thus not encouraging a peaceful dealing with past, present and future).

This day was full of interesting discussions. The aim was to get better (or more complex) picture of today’s Kosovo – its past, identity, aims for the future and so on. Following the discussions of previous days (with e.g. the director of National theatre or with the NGO Mother’s appeal) we met another non governmental organizations, pro-Albania orientated activists, controversial journalist and even politics.

We started wit the two non-governmental organizations – Humanitarian Law Centre and Partners-Kosova Centre for Conflict Management. These organisations work in the field of human rights and are dealing with several projects. Aimed e.g. on gathering of the data of victims (of Albanians as well of Serbs and other minorities) of the war which happened in 1999. From these data they are now preparing the Kosovo Memory Book which is going to be published by the end of the year 2010. The data are also part of the database which is available on the internet for the public. It is interesting that the government does not have complete data of the victims and the only comprehensive source of the data is non-governmental organizations. Beside official lists of victims, non-governmental organizations get data by conducting interviews with family members of the victims. The main aim is to show victims as a people, not as a numbers. From this point of view, Kosovo Memory Book can somehow be regarded as a “memorial’ for all the victims of the last war in Kosovo.

Following was the meeting with the Deputy Prime Minister of Kosovo (Deputy Prime Minister Ramë Manaj) and his advisor. Comparing to the previous meeting, this one was quite formal, nevertheless also very interesting with lots of discussions. Issues discussed were mostly also the victims of the war, how this problem is being solved in the law of Kosovo, are there any trials being held, what are the reparations for the families of the victims, how victims should be commemorated – whether to build a common memorial for all victims or not, which data to settle as a national day for all the victims of the war and so on.

By the way – the issue of common memorial was being discussed a lot during the day. And it was interesting to hear different opinions from the different sides – explaining how is it possible that 10 years after the war there is no memorial for all victims standing and families have to build memorials for their relative themselves…

Afterwards we attended another very interesting meeting with Migjen Kelmendi, who is a famous controversial journalist in Kosovo. He has his own television channel called Rock and own newspaper called Java. He is also the editor of the publication “Who is Kosovar?” which was published in 2005. He is quite critical to the Kosovo’s society of nowadays. He is provoking the society with the questions like: “Is the society of Kosovo being built on the values or on the blood?” “Is Kosovo civil state or national state?” or as he said “In our patriotic society, Kosovo is just like a ‘girl state’, while society was expecting a ‘boy state’…” Furthermore, both his TV channel as well as newspapers use daily gheg, which is an informal language of the most of the northern Albanians. Nevertheless it is not allowed to use this language in media, it is not being taught in schools and society strictly uses tosk, which is the language established as an official one by the council of the Albanian communistic regime in 70’s. Migjen Kelmendi  is again posing the questions like “Why is our society still using tosk? Are we Kosovars or Albanians? What is the aim of our society for the future?” Would be really interesting to read his book…

We met as a contrast to the previous talk the head of Vetevendosje Albin Kurti. He is a critic of international ruling in Kosovo. We really saw a huge spectrum of opinions and some very radical opinions. But no real answers to our questions concerning future or alternatives for today’s status of Kosovo.

Unfortunately the last meeting which was planed with the Serb’s association in Gracanica was cancelled. They would be the only Serbs we could have talk to in Kosovo. But after all those interviews we were quite tired and already full of experiences and questions to think about.

Sunday’s in Pristina. We would love to see more of those. Unfortunately, it is the only one that is granted us and we have to face the facts: It’s the 4th out of 7 days and we are having the 10^th out of approximately 20 espressi or machiatti. Our time here will be over before we know and most of us will be sitting at Budapest’s airport in less then 4 days. Before that we will have presented our artworks and performances to Pristina’s public, we will have had the time for a night out with our locals, a few beers or rakia and lots of fun and serious discussions with sometimes necessary peace keeping troops and happy endings. Most likely, we will also have three more days of extraordinary good and fresh food lying behind us and for sure we will be carrying many more memories that we will want to share with the public back home. As I am writing this diary entry one day later than expected, I don’t know what I know now and I am still relaxed about many things, among them the presentation on Tuesday and our preparations for it. But I don’t want to go into detail about this, since I don’t know anything about it yet.

What I know at this point of time is that most of us are in love with the city and enjoy their stay here. Shopping trips, street art excursions, the quest for art materials, the habit of breakfasts at la artista and a lot of work, many interesting discussions including most interesting and sometimes challenging interview partners. However, speaking of la artista, tomorrow will be another day of interviews and tough work on projects on a tight schedule.

Carrying on with an intense schedule in Prishtina, at 8 o’clock we met for breakfast and coffee at La Artista.  After having eaten most of the delicious pastries and having drunk our coffees, we headed to the Dodona Theatre, where we were to do some warming up exercises as well as discuss about our performance.

As there were many options on the way and the place we were going to perform, we decided to vote on how we wanted to perform and soon left to the Mother Teresa Boulevard to find a suitable spot for both the exhibition and the performance. In the end, we narrowed the selection on only two spots in the boulevard, but decided to come back and visit at night so we could pick one of those two.

After this we were divided in smaller groups for our free working time and most of us went to buy the material needed for our individual work, as tomorrow, on Sundays, shops don’t work.
We met again at 6 o’clock in the afternoon, because we had a meeting with two Kosovar artists, who were going to present their work. Mehmet Behluli, an artist and university professor and Dren Maliqi, artist, had come to present the work of Kosovar contemporary artists. We saw many videos made by thriving artists like Jakup Ferri, Sokol Beqiri and Lulzim Zeqiri, which were followed by Behluli’s very relaxed but still very informative way of lecturing and presenting.

We did also dedicate some time to discuss Dren Maliqi’s work with the national hero Adem Jasharri, which had already raised many heated debates after it was exhibited and destroyed in Belgrade back in 2008. Face to face was a painting in the Andy Warhol Pop art style, featuring Elvis Presley standing opposite to Adem Jashari. The painting was actually made in 2003, and according to Maliqi, he made this painting to show how Adem Jashari had become an overused name and figure, which sometimes stripped of his value as a war hero, especially when a lot of streets, shops and boulevards were named after him.

Speaking very proudly for the young artists, Behluli told us about the way most of the work that the artists do, rests upon their own financial contribution or small contributions from donors. The discussion went on to raise the issue of how artists in Kosovo cannot live on their art, because, according to Behluli, people who have the money are not interested in contemporary art, and the ones who are interested simply don’t have the money. For this reason, according to him, Dren Maliqi had recently opened a café which would bring in money to live on. Drrasat e Thyme, which was the name given to the café, had a DJ in tonight. We were kindly invited by the owner to join them for some drinks after the dinner.

Filled with rather good vibes from the presentation and Behluli’s very kind approach, we left Dodona to go to have food for dinner. Straight after there, we made our way to this hidden place were Maliqi’s café was. After enjoying our locally produced, wine, raki, and beer, which Kaltrina felt it was a good way to promote local goods, we went home to get enough sleep to take us through the next day.

by: Kaltrina, Monika, Konstanza

Second day in Kosovo.
We had to wake up early, but the sun was shining and we had coffee – the best beginning of the day.
We started our tour around cities and places in Kosovo. On our way we passed beautiful sceneries, a nice countryside and amazing mountains. We also saw a lot of private memorials, built by families in front of their houses or on graveyards we saw just close to the streets.
The first stop of our trip was Prekaz. We saw the statue of Adam Jashari, one of the founders of KLA (Kosovar Liberation Army). Twenty members of the Jasahri family were killed in 1998 an 1999. You can see graves of the family and also the ruins of the houses of the family. We spent only a  little time at the privatly financed memorial. During the time we spent there we saw almost 60 pupils passing the memorial, taking pictures and leaving the place even faster than we did.
In Gjakova we had a meeting with the head of the NGO „Mother´s appeal“. This organisation finds and registers people who are missing since the time of the war. The organisation helps the families who missing one or several members.  Around 1900 people are still missing in Kosovo today. The office´s walls were covered by pictures of missing people, of sons, of brothers in law, of husbands of the women who fight very hard for more information and support.
Hesrek Kummnova, head of the organisation, led us to a private museum in the city. A private house where the only person living in the threefloor house ist the mother of four sons. All four sons and her husband were taken away and until today only the dead body of two of them were found. The mother shows their pictures, the clothes they were wearing when they were taken away and their rooms. She started crying and we were very much touched by the situation.
We visited the graveyard of the city of Gjakova and the memorial for the fight against fashism in 1944.
In Suhareka we saw the only memorial in Kosovo reminding of civilian victims of the war. Besides this memorial we saw a memorial place without any remark or statue showing what it is actually about. The place was just left as it was after the attac. It was the restaurant where members of the Berisha family were killed.
We stopped on our way in Shtime where the latest memorial in Kosovo was built. We asked spontanously on the street what these three huge columns actually mean and got surprisingly different answers.
The reflection of the very full day with so many impressions, questions, discussion led to the following remarks:

Things are more complicated than it seams at first sight.
10 years after war- is a short time for being in mourning.
How can we give the people a sign of empathy!
How can we develop an atmosphere of tolerance?
It is possible in such a short time?
Death and also sorrow are invisible.
Can we transform such an impression in an artistic form?
All mothers of the world are in mourning if their children are being killed! All mothers of the world are in mourning if their children are dead.
How to find an aesthetic form for this problems?
I don´t want to injure anyone.

How can you live on when you declare your home and family a museum?

We cannot help others. We can just show our interest.

It is very hard to keep distance because you were part of it.

To whom are those memorials made?

Everything happend not long time ago.
Easy going young people which is on one hand good.

Which flag is more important for people? Kosovar´s or Albanien´s?

People are brave since they accept to deal with the reality living a life that has no meaning anymore.

Where does this long-term grief come from?

This way of mourning is not healing. Some trauma is giving to the next generation.

Is forgiveness only possible for younger generation.

Painfull. And even more painfull because nobody is commemorated as a human being but as a hero. Talking to people is the biggest memorial.

All memorials, statues are kind of staging, there ist the danger of misuse, I feel I need to talk to people to get my own ideas of what has happened.

I don´t want this to happened again. I want to watch the beauty of the wind, to be with people…and to know we all are both the same and colourfully different.

I don´t know how to place this. This was so full of connotations, at the most it is valuable as something authentically cultural. I feel anger.

Dead turistic/ we were important for all those people/ everything is too fresh/ so strong families/ unbelievable/ absurd/ need to cry and can´t do nothing but they do

Short sleep, just a nap and early breakfast. Peter almost forgotten in Rehlovice, packing his stuff for a looong time. Prague airport. A small hungarian plain to Budapest (Fokker 70). A bigger hungarian plain to Prishtina (Boeing 737/…). So now we are in Prishtina, summer all around, seeing more young people than during one week in central Europe. Kosovo is the youngest society on this continent. Going back home, going as a guest. Going first time on kosovar streets. But we will try to be professionally home, since there is a whole lot to be seen and digested. The post office turned to be the new Kosovar government. EU forces everywhere. “You are not allowed to take pictures here!” We are staying in different places over the centre of the city, we greet the library with its 99 copulas (there was a picture of Vaclav Havel – “Opening NATO’s door”) and have our first steps in the main boulevard, not knowing what awaits us. Peja is the beer! Strange to look at your city with the eyes of a foreigner. Memorials, memorials, memorials. Hard hard hard times in 21st century. Dinner at “Pishat”. Locals know the place. A lot of questions. Meeting students. Is it the same to ask questions and advise something? Or is it different? We are still having this question on mind today, and it is already Friday. And the question is difficult. No time to write this diary on time. Took a picture of the newBORN! Yellow. The children join our visit to Boro-Ramiz. There is another thing that may have been felt: We have left the peace and quiet of Rehlovice, where we were free to engage in thinking, opening our minds in the vastness of space and time. Dust and water, water and dust. Water cuts from 23 to 5. Good night!

Written: Ivana, Artan, Peter

A cold and lazy morning!! We didn’t want to wake up early as we had to, but …. What can you do if “jingle bells” are ringing? We ate breakfast, which included pancakes for a change and a ’short’ lecture by Marie-Luise and Timon about our plans in Kosovo. Afterwards, we went to the yard and started with an “impulse” – as usually -and a drama exercise which we enjoy a lot. After warming up our bodies a little bit, we started an exercise preparing for staged photography deled with relations between people and included answering questions by taking photographs of our created scenes…

The old storage building was stage for our work and our art of performance once more. It was a very lively action with yelled words, spilled water, clapping hands and wooden sticks! Some people had stronger feelings than the day before; others on the other hand didn’t feel as included as in the previous performance.

At 13:00h we went to the pub to have lunch and shared the joy of free ‘working-time’, as Marie Luise calls it. At 5:00 o’ clock, we were to meet Mark Ther and a member of the artist group Rafani. We watched their works and videos and after that we had an open-questions discussion about it, where we asked many questions about their motivation and people’s reactions on their work. What seemed especially interesting to us was the connection of homosexuals and Nazis. The two artists patiently answered our questions and we were even able to connect their work our memory. When the artists left, we had a an almost vegan barbecue and the tofu tasted like fish. Every glass of Lenka’s fabulous wine was introduced by the words “masterpiece”, “master peace”, or “master’s peaces” and “interesting”. It’s cold outside now and we have to get ready for paradise…

“Let’s go to Dresden, the bus is here, already,” said Frauke. We used the same red bus with the same blonde woman who drove the bus to Terezin. After an hour and half, or maybe more, we were standing in front of  “Polizei” in Dresden. Unfortunately, we couldn’t use the mp3 players in German from the Stadt Museum, because of their disfunctionality, therefore we decided to have a tour of our own.

We went on a bridge, on the river Elbe, where from we could see most of the city. Maria Louise’s voice triumphed over the noisy trams, so we all gathered some interesting and important facts and tales about the old buildings, and their connection to King August the Great.

Later, after Marie Louise’s treat with delicious ice cream, we slowly walked to the  Ladies Church, which was recently reconstructed. However, because of the timing we couldn’t go into the church as a group, but we gained an even better opportunity. As most of us are students, we were rather happy when they told us we could go into the church later and that we only had to pay 3 euros. To our surprise, Marie Louise decided to treat us again, as we think she likes us quite a lot. From this point on, most of  the group was separated in smaller ones and started to discover the city little by little.

The group that went to the tower spent quite a lot of time exploring the beauties of the whole city. Nevertheless, some of them felt dissapointed when they went in the Ladies Church, because, according to them, the decoration of the interior was bizzare. The idea that a Protestant church should not be  too loaded with decoration, especially  the ones painted in gold, made this church look more like a Catholic church.

While some of us where busy shopping in the big shopping mall inDresden, the rest went to Neue Stadt in a pub to have drinks. Although many of us wanted to have more time to explore Dresden, unfortunately, at five we all jumped on our red bus and took the way back to Rehlovice.

After quickly grabbing food, we all sat to watch the perfomance from yesterday and reflected on it. Now everybody is working on their individual projects and enjoying some tasty Czech beer.

written by: Kaltrina and Eva

Dumplings for the lunch. “Everything is illuminated”. Shouting words on the atic. Open! Moving! Fluid! Spreading water and digging on the earth´s radical sky. Bleeding hand. Humming and moving. Searching the future in the past tense. We do know each other. Do we know each other? Do we feel each other? The biggest, greatest, biggest, greatest dream? It´s secret. It´s raining. Open to influence. Opening the bottle´s view through the cork looking eye. Strong. Manipulative, individual? Sparks in the oblivion. Trachimbrod. Tears inside. Yes tears. Achab didn´t come!!! Loud laughter in the café. First speaches about our concepts. Collecting ideas. And material. Pexeso! Free working time! Listening to the didgeridoo in the morning. And eating breakfast in silence. Another excercising wave. Impulse. Chaos on the wall. And Eva washing the floor, unasked. Marie Luise went to Dresden – meeting her tomorrow. Will Monika be healthy again? Good night. Have a good night everyone!

written by: Artan, Isabel, Ivana

After enjoying the fire for too long yesterday it was hard for us to get up, but finaly we managed to leave to Terezin almost on time.

In many ways Terezin was different from what some of us expected, e.g. being quite a small town with only 1000 inhabitants, who seemed mostly disconnected from the history of the place; the former ghetto not being visible at first sight.

Originally, we were supposed to meet Mrs. Liblova, who is a former prisoner in the ghetto during the Second World War, but she had to cancel the tour due to sickness. So, Frauke gave us a short tour, introduced us to the basic history of the town and lead us to the most important places of memory and museums of Terezin. After lunch at Restaurant Klobouk which belongs to Diakonie ECCB and serves as special training program for people with mental handicaps, we had the chance to discover the place individually.

Later on, right before the lecture about contemporary memorials by Marie-Luise Lange, we spoke about our impressions and thoughts of the day. Several questions were raised which we like to share with you:

(1) Is Terezin’s way of building memorials encouraging thinking enough?
(2) Can we find ourselves reflected in there?
(3) Can the memory of the place and the memory of individuals exist together? / Does it feel right to see people living regular lives in a former ghetto?
(4) Why aren’t more people living in Terezin?
(5) What question is raised in the camera shower today? (remember the camera shower?)

You are welcome to help us answer these questions by using the comments bellow …

written: Konstanze, Katarina, Nora

Second day: After waking up by the ‚jingle bells’ song again this morning, earlier than yesterday morning, we had a lovely breakfast again prepared by Vera.
Around 8:45 we left the culture centre heading to the train station to get the train for Usti Nad Labem. We left Rehlovice at 9:00h and arrived in Usti Nad Labem about 20 minutes later.
After arriving at the Usti train station, we did a walking tour around the city that was guided by Frauke.  We started with a memorial stone that was for commemorating Frantisek Zajicek, who was an employee at the Usti Nad Labem’s train station during the World War II, and who helped people that were about to be sent to concentration camps.
Next we went to the park where the Jewish cemetry used to be, visited the statue by Gabriel that stands for commemorating it, then we visited some other statues that were part of that park. One of them was for a victim of comunism period which was created by Olbram Zoubek, and the other one was for commemorating soviet soldiers.
After visiting Mestske sady, we passed by churches and visited one of them. At around 13:00h we met Susann Donath at the city’s cemetry, who is an artist from Dresden. She showed us a certain grave of a German-Czech mixed couple that she had been taking care of  it for half a year now. The main purpose of her art project is to highlight the things that German and Czech people have in common. After her presentation, we had a very interesting discussion about  how culture, history and religion influence our identities, memories and thinkings. We also were told that people with different nationality, religion and social status were buried in separated areas of the graveyard and than we visited the most valuable grave of all, which was pretty extraordinary, built for a Roma man.
Later on we had the chance to take a rest in a local pub near the trainstation, to have a beer or just freshen a bit after a big tour around the city At about 16:30 we took the train back to Rehlovice.
Then it was really time to rest and eat and collect new strength. The evening was filled with Marie-Luise Langes lecture on individual and collective memories and their manifestation in memorials and monuments throughout the time. The discussions and sharing of thoughts will probably continue outside at the fireplace……….Let`s see where it leads us…..
written by: Isabel, Ewa, Rita

The first day was very intensive and full of activities. Waking up at half past seven, we expect to be asleep by midnight at the earliest. But now the details:

After breakfast the group met to be introduced to a variety of exercises to help us getting to know each other better and develop a sense of the place and the group. These were of different types aiming to touch upon physical, spiritual and sensual stimulation. The most interesting activities were the ones held inside one of the buildings, including blind walking and, the extremely influential exercise based on intensive eye contact.

The main task of the day, however, was to undertake a first approach to our individual memories by means of artistic installations of personal items, involving mainly family photos. These were prepared individually, using any locations in the large area of Rehlovice Cultural Centre. Following that, we did a silent tour of the installations, leaving written notes, and a second tour allowing the artists to comment on their installations and answer questions issued by the group.

It has been suggested to add a further dimension of documentary to the project based on the idea of a video interview. We had an initial one tonight and it was enough of a success to keep it alive. So, every day, one of us will provide a personal question which then each of us will try to answer in front of a camera installed in one of our two shower booths. We will watch the answers the following day. (By the way, it is a very strange feeling to sit in a shower, talking to a camera without anybody else being around.)

The feel of the group is obviously very productive, which showed already upon our arrival night. Thus, it comes as no surprise that we had already entered in heated and productive discussions during the day. Already now a lot of questions have occurred which we hope to be answered during the next days.

written by: Katerina, Kaltrina, Peter

A project for people who travel to Czech Republic, Germany and Kosovo to search and examine traces of history.

What do we recollect from our history and how do we commemorate it? This question will bring about a different result for everybody and will be answered differently in every country because of its specific historical background.

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